Double Breasted
Jackets are one of the most comfortable, practical and versatile items in your wardrobe. They can be worn with everything from evening wear to jeans and can instantly change an outfit's 'attitude'. They are essential items in any professional woman's wardrobe, giving the wearer an air of professionalism and authority.
The blazer is the most classic of all the jackets, and when purchased in a flattering neutral colour or a subtle pattern, it makes a good starting point. Extra jackets can then be added for variety. When your wardrobe needs a boost, purchase items for your top half first, e.g. shirts, jackets, tops, scarves, vests, as these are noticed before skirts and pants.
Shaped jackets are the most flattering. Semi-fitted jackets are flattering on everyone. Very fitted jackets are best left to the young, slim and shapely and are designed to be worn closed - left unbuttoned, they will flare outwards. Rectangular women best wear the long, boxy and stiff jacket, but only if you are under 45 years old as they can cause the more mature wearer to take on a matronly appearance. Soft, unlined boxy jackets are flattering to everyone as they move with the body, giving it shape while hiding many figure concerns.
Worn open (unbuttoned), most jackets will show a strong vertical line that will be very slimming if you are over your ideal weight with a large bustline, thick waist, or full hipline. Do not wear double-breasted jackets unbuttoned as they hang awkwardly.
Detailing such as pockets and lapels should be placed to provide balance to the body's horizontal proportions.
Jackets need to cater for the type of garments you intend to wearing underneath. For example, lapels limit the styles of blouses and tops that can be successfully teamed with jackets, e.g. clover leaf lapels do not co-ordinate well with pointed collars. On the other hand, lapel-less jackets give unlimited neckline and collar options for blouse and tops, while rolled lapels limit styles to those with no collars (e.g. camisoles) or those that climb the neck (e.g. turtlenecks).
A good fit is essential. Sleeves that are too long look dowdy and give the impression that the jacket is either too big for the wearer or belongs to someone else. The back of the collar should hug the back of the neck, the lapels should lay flat upon the chest, and the length of the jacket should be consistent with your vertical proportions.